Behind the Tracks

Surf It Mellow &

Longboard

  

            The tracks “Surf it Mellow” and “Longboard” from the “Waves of Soul” record are perfect musical descriptors for some of the most beautiful days that I’ve spent surfing at Mondos beach. I do a lot of thinking when I surf and have gotten lots of inspiration at Mondos. It’s a super mellow, rural beach at the base of the mountains just north of Ventura, California – perfect for hanging with buddies, surfing, or just paddling around. It’s a place where I can air out my head, and contemplate life. I have a special place in my heart for Mondos. It provided the inspiration for ‘Surf It Mellow” and “Longboard.”

I first learned to surf at Zuma beach in Malibu with my two kids. We took group lessons with a company called Malibu Makos. We learned on long boards, but had our eyes set on surfing the short board. We wanted to carve up waves just like Shawn White rips the half pipe. It wasn’t long before my son and I ventured out to various local surf spots. Surfers are really awesome at providing tips and pointers on just about everything surf related so learning about all of our local spots was super easy.

Mondos was one of the first surf spots that we hit. There’s a reason for that. I had been told that it was perfect for older guys, for beginners, and families. The vibe of the people was said to be super mellow, peaceful, understanding and accommodating. I was told that the waves were smooth, gentle, and forgiving. That sounded absolutely perfect, and it was.

You have to be careful where you surf, especially when you’re a beginner. Beginners may not know, or be even be aware of that fact that each beach has it’s own vibe, it’s own personality, and it’s own mode of operation. You need to know where to park, where to walk, where to drop in, where the bulk of the surfers are going to line up, who gets the wave, who doesn’t, where are the rip currents, and on and on. You don’t want to go to an intense surf spot until you’re really confident and have achieved a high level of competency. If you don’t work your way up to the bigger waves and more popular surfing spots then you’ll be an unsafe surfer, put peoples lives in danger.  

If you really want to surf the big waves with the best surfers, then you need to surf small waves for a while, then surf slightly bigger waves for a while, then get to know local surfers so you can get pointers on how to get better. I got lots of great help from the guys at our local surf shop “Revolution.” They know all of the ins and outs. It’s always a good idea to hit the local surf shop closest to the beaches that you want to surf to get the inside skinny. Another excellent thing to do is to surf with a local. Surf with someone that everyone knows. When you come into a surf spot from a point of respect for the locals, and honor their beaches and traditions, then all will be well. Don’t barrel your way in, steal waves, or crash all over people. Go to the beach that fits your level of difficulty, has people that you like, and has a great overall feel. That’s exactly what Mondos is for me.

It was late afternoon on a perfect fall So Cal day whenI got hooked on Mondos. The sun was just beginning to set. The waves were perfectly groomed. The air temperature was perfect. It was probably in the mid to high 60’s maybe 70 at best.  Surfers were catching waves that ran from one side of the bowl to the other and beyond. It seemed like the waves went on forever. There was plenty of time for surfers to flip their boards from side to side, hang ten, and to even do headstands. It felt like I was in heaven. I’ve loved that spot ever since. But, I learned very quickly that being able to surf the gentle waves of Mondos didn’t qualify me for the challenging waves of neighboring spots like Rincon, C-Street, and County Line.

My son and I surfed Zuma 14, Leo Carrillo, County Line, C Street, Rincon, and Silver Strand. I can’t tell you how many times I got completely wiped out by waves at those surf spots. I spent quite a few years going back and forth between Mondos and those spots. I learned something really important about myself. I’m not a speed junky. I wasn’t wiling, at my late age – I started surfing at 42 – to risk life and limb to learn how to carve with a short board. I had some nasty wipeouts that made me think twice about what boundaries I was willing to push. I realized that I prefer long board rides on super chill waves that have enough power to push me at a brisk and fun pace minus the risk of ending my day with stitches, broken bones, and concussions.

I haven’t gotten into mountain biking for the same reason. There are a lot of great mountain biking trails in our neighborhood. We live at the base of the Santa Monica Mountains. I can’t tell you how many people have suggested that I buy a mountain bike. Flying down the mountain at high rates of speed with trails that are no wider then your bike and cliffs that drop hundreds of feet to the valley with no guardrail isn’t my idea of fun. I know that if, and when I do buy a bike, it’ll be a beach cruiser with a coffee/beer caddy on it and a basket for groceries. I’ll ride it on Venice Beach, maybe around the Santa Monica Pier, but that’s about it. Of course there is a chance that I could hit a patch of sand on the sidewalk and wipeout pretty good. I’ve seen that happen more then once, but I’ll take that risk.

The main thing is to know who you are by paying attention to what you like. Do what you like, and be happy with it. Embrace it. Don’t get me wrong. I love to watch people surf huge waves and ride 50-foot faces at Mavericks. I appreciate and deeply enjoy the fact that people can do that, but I also realize that it’s not a part of my life’s journey. I wasn’t born with the need for speed. I’m not wired that way and it’s fine. It wasn’t fine when I tried to be someone that I wasn’t’, when I tried to go for the big waves and contemplated the short board. I’m really happy that my soul digs surfing the gentle, mellow waves of Mondos. I am perfectly content. My soul doesn’t need anything else to be fulfilled and so that’s what I do, that’s what I enjoy, that’s what I love and that’s the inspiration for composing “Longboard” and Surf It Mellow.”

Until next time - Surf it Mellow my brothers and sisters - the MD